I, too, dislike it: there are things that are important beyond
all this fiddle.
Drinking it, however, with a perfect contempt for it, one
discovers in
it after all, a place for the genuine.
Beans that can grind, ice
that can melt, syrups that can taste like hazelnut
if they must, these things are important not because an
Italian-sounding nomenclature can be put upon them but because
they are
useful. When they become so over-used as to become
flavorless,
the same thing may be said for all of us, that we
do not slurp the smoothie
we cannot understand: the barista
holding on to the counter or in quest of something to
eat, customers pushing, a wild author taking a stroll, a tireless
CEO under
a Seattle rooftop, the immovable counter twitching its formica like a horse
that wants some tea, the pastry
fan, the failed magician–
nor is it valid
to discriminate against “corporate documents and
mix CDs”; all these phenomena are important. One must make
a distinction
however: when dragged into prominence by half-baristas, the
result is not coffee,
nor till the coffee snobs among us can be
“gourmets of
the milk and cinnamon station”–above
insolence and triviality and can present
for inspection, “imaginary cocoas with real milk in them,“
shall we have
it. In the meantime, if you demand on the one hand,
the raw material of coffee in
all its rawness and
that which is on the other hand
genuine, you are interested in coffee.
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